On a mystical evening, under the Alexander III Bridge in Paris, the fashion house of Maison Margiela crafted a unique show that is one for the books. Everyone from fashion influencers to international celebrities gathered together for this theatrical and emotional performance, which cannot be called anything less than a masterpiece.
This Maison Margiela Artisanal 2024 collection, from the Paris Couture Week 2024, under the creative direction of John Galliano, was nothing short of a visual spectacle. It was inspired by the 18th and 19th century European dresses, as well as Galliano’s passion for theatre and art history. Every element, from the music, film, makeup, walk on the runway, was incredibly dramatic.
With the dimmed lighting, asymmetrical décor, shattered glasses and spilled drinks, they recreated a haunting and eerie hidden bar set design. To open the show, a French singer Lucky Love performed his latest song Now, I don’t need your love, along with a gospel choir and set the tone for the rest of the night. The mastery of design and storytelling made it one of the best couture shows in recent history.
The collection revolved around the concept of deconstruction of not just garments but also the very idea of beauty. The show began with exposed dresses, with the features of modern and Victorian eras, gradually transforming soft silhouettes into extremely contrasting forms. There was also a constant transition between colourful, rainbow tones to dark tones. It was an interpretation of today’s body modification and prosthetics, and how far people are willing to go to change themselves.
Familiar silhouettes were fragmented, reshaped, and layered, creating a sense of controlled chaos. Tailored jackets were transformed into asymmetrical pieces, dresses were deconstructed and rebuilt, showcasing layers of contrasting fabrics and textures.
This method was used to challenge traditional notions of beauty and exploring unconventional forms. The inner workings of a garment were exposed, which was evident throughout the collection. Jackets were peeled back to reveal their linings, skirts were left unfinished, and seams were left raw. This rawness wasn’t a sign of sloppiness; it was a deliberate statement; a celebration of the deconstruction process itself.
Another notable feature was the porcelain doll makeup on every model. This created a sense of eeriness and detachment. The models resembled living dolls, adding to the theatrical and dreamlike atmosphere of the show. It presented a stylized, almost artificial form of beauty that coexisted with the deconstructed garments. It was done by none other than the legendary make-up artist, Pat McGrath.
Photo Credits: Vogue
The 20-minute-long show ended with the dramatic appearance of the British actress Gwendoline Christie, who wore a vinyl dress combined with a corset.
The overall effect of the Maison Margiela Artisanal SS24 collection was one of haunting beauty. The deconstructed garments, the exposed seams, the raw edges – all these elements created a sense of vulnerability and imperfection. Every aspect of this was a proof of their commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional fashion.
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